The first in a series of tasting events that take place in Europe and was originally posted in Auswine forum discussions, Attila explores Australian Merlot with a number of Hungarian wine enthusiasts and wine professionals.

Tasting held in the town of Szombathely (St.Martin) in western Hungary, near the Austrian border. Attending with the Pincemester (Cellar Master) wine club members were, Austrian winemakers Franz W. senior and junior, painter/artist Csaba O and Norbert B. ,he begun his studies to become Hungary's first Master of Wine.

The event took place on August 11,2003.

T'GALLANT 'IO' Pinot Gris 2000
I always considered the I0 to be a special wine, so we kicked off the tasting with this rare white. Winemakers (always working together) Kevin McCarthy and Kathleen Quealy hit the bull's eye with this Pinot Gris. The grapes were grown on the 3 hectares McCabe site (Mornington Peninsula, Vic.) planted in 1989. The grapes were bunch selected. Only 3072 bottles made. The name 'I0' refers to the mythological goddess of transformation. The alcohol of this bone dry white stand at a massive 16% Vol.
Beautiful bright and light yellow colour with some darker hay on the edges. The nose is restrained, but fragrant spicy aromas of white stonefruit oozes when the glass is swirled. The palate is medium to full bodied with complex fruit characters. Impeccable balance and a beautiful long finish. A serious wine that will age for at least 7 years, it is the best Pinot Gris I've tasted in Australia. Cost AU $39 and is hard to find.

Csaba O. noted the excellent artwork of the labels (presented in a short video feature) by Ken Cato.

KATNOOK ESTATE Merlot 2000
One of my 'discoveries' of 2002, I was keen to start the merlot tasting with this outstanding Coonawarra red made by Wayne Stebhens. The colour is still dark cherry with some purple hues. The nose is very fragrant and rich, it evolved greatly since last year. Distinctively Coonawarra, the wine is rich with complex fruits of the forrest and lovely sweet berry taste. Balanced by excellent oak (it spent 17 months in french Nevers and Troncais barrels,30% new), it will age for an other 8 years easily. A very good wine, worth the AU $45 asking price.
'Very Australian and distinctive of the region' said Franz.W junior.

FERMOY ESTATE Merlot 2000
This Margaret River wine made by Michael Kelly is textbook St.Emilion style with it's blend of 87% merlot and 13% cabernet sauvignon. Definitely french style winemaking, the wine is aromatic, complex and savoury, the 14% vol. alcohol sticks out a little but according to Franz W. senior it will come into balance in 5 years time. A good wine with excellent cellaring potential. Cost AU $30.

TRINITY HILL Gimblett Road Merlot 1999
This New Zealand entry from Hawkes Bay was very popular as people cheered on while the All Blacks performed the fearsome 'Haka' on video. Winemaker John Hancock is a brilliant Australian who now reside in New Zealand. I wanted to taste his absolutely fantastic 2001 Merlot this evening but I was not able to get a bottle in time. The 1999 is still a good wine from a lesser vintage. Made definitely to Pomerol style (90% merlot, 10% cabernet franc) it is mouthfilling, round and soft.
'Intelligent winemaking' said Csaba O.
This merlot blend will age for an other 7 years thanks to the excellent oak treatment (16 months in french barriques, 75% of the barrels new) the wine cost AU $39.

KYEEMA Canberra District Merlot 1999
Andrew McEwin's wine, although heat damaged, took second place in popularity this evening. It's not easy to get a bottle of this Australian Capital Terrotory merlot but seek out as this is serious winemaking and you won't find such pure 100% expression of merlot easily in N.S.W. The grape picking, by Andrew were based on flavour ripeness, not sugar ripeness. Very dark red in colour, the concentrated bouquet offers the aromas of red berries, mulberry and cherry. The palate is medium to full bodied and is very clean. (Unfortunately this bottle was lost in transit for a while in the extreme heat of this european summer and other than the bleeding cork, some 'cooked' aromas surfaced-however, I tasted this wine in perfect condition last year-I judge this wine on that.)
'Heat damage or not, I love this stuff' said Norbert B.
With excellent balance, the wine will peak in 6 years time. Cost AU $26, a bargain.

CAPEL VALE Merlot 1998
This is the basic, white label release from this W.A. producer from the Geographe-Pemberton region. The wine was made by the excellent Krister Jonnson (no longer with Capel Vale) who apparently spent the vintage of 1997 in Pomerol learning at the great Chateau Petrus. In any case, I absolutely loved this plummy, rich and fragrant wine. Beautifully balanced and silky it has understated power that will keep it going for at least an other 5 years. The wine spent 14 months in French barriques, it is 100% merlot, definitely Pomerol style. Cost AU $25.
'Ah, what excellent balance' noted Csaba O.

MIRANDA Show Reserve Merlot 1998
The weakest entry at this tasting. I picked it last year for it's concentration and smoky oak characters, however it now showed too much advancement, it aged rather quickly. This 100% merlot from the King Valley of Victoria is the result of mechanical harvesting, it spent 12 months in French and American oak. I liked it a lot better last year.
'Definitely a step down from the rest' commented Norbert B.

LECONFIELD Coonawarra Merlot 1995
The Number One wine with everyone. It just blew people away. A mighty merlot made by Ralph Fowler. Just like the Katnook, it showed true Coonawarra characteristics. A limited release, between 3000 to 4000 bottles were made. The grapes were picked from a little over 3 hectares plot planted in 1974 and 1982. The wine spent 18 months in new french oak imported from Burgundy. Vibrant cherry colour, complex nose of savoury, slightly gamey fruits. Concentrated, medium bodied palate, very harmonious and balanced. Beautiful, long finish with lovely tannins. Excellent drinking at 8 years of age, it will no doubt mature for an other five. I paid AU $36. A Sydney retailer still had some in July for AU $46. It's well worth both prices.
'What an experience' noted Csaba O.
'Wow, it still appears young' said Norbert B.
'Great merlot and great winemaking' added the winemakers from Austria.

PETALUMA Coonawarra Merlot 1995
Opened to be in direct comparison to the Leconfield. It appeared lighter and less concentrated.
'It appears as if Brian Croser tried for Pomerol in style instead of trying to fully express Coonawarra' noted Csaba O.
The colour looked more advanced than the Leconfield. The bouquet offered gamey tones with cherryand some berry fruit. The palate was very dry with grainy oak. It had the impression that most of the fruit already dried up. It was still a good wine to drink with food, but lacked fruit intensity. I had the feeling that the wine peaked 2 years earlier. The general opinion of the others was, that the wine was well made but now with 'something' lacking or missing.
This 100% merlot spent 2 years in brand new Nevers oak. 16 thousand 800 bottles were made. I paid AU $55 but it can cost you up to $80. Not sure about the value.
'Precise winemaking but with not much soul' commented Franz.W junior.

MOUNT PLEASANT Very Old Madeira (Verdelho)
The night ended with this superb dessert wine, blended by master winemaker Phillip Ryan from old solera wines dating back to the 1930's. People sighed with satisfaction at the table as they sipped this Hunter Valley beauty from their glasses.
'Where is my cuban cigar?' reached for his pocket Csaba O.
Superbly balanced sweetness and alcohol, extremely smooth and flavourful, this grand old and illegally labelled (by European laws) Verdelho crowned the evening. Available from cellar door only, it cost AU $35 but worth twice as much easily.
'Outstanding and great' said the winemakers from Austria.
'Very special, I've never tasted anything like it' commented Norbert B.

Indeed! Then we all headed home.

Copyright © 2004 Attila H., All Rights Reserved
About the Author
Attila is a regular on the Auswine forum and posts regular tasting notes about many of the worlds great wines he has had the privilege of tasting and writes about the regular wine events he takes part in.