The second in a series of tasting events that take place in Europe and was originally posted in Auswine forum discussions, Attila explores Australian Shiraz with a number of Austrian wine enthusiasts and wine professionals.

Tasting held in the Austrian wine village of Horitschon, Mittelburgenland region, 100 km south-east of Vienna, near the Hungarian border. The event took place in the Weninger winery with mostly austrian winemakers attending.

• Franz W. Jr - winemaker.
• Franz W. Sr - winemaker.
• Franz P. - United Vineyards.
• Anton - winemaker.
• Tony I. - from the Austrian Wine Academy.
• Brigitte P. - a sparkling young lady.
• Wolfgang - an enthusiastic taster.
   

Date: August 23,2003.

I selected shiraz wines that I thought would be interesting and hard to find in Austria. Before the tasting started, Tony approached me: "As much as I appreciate Australian shiraz, I still prefer Hermitage" I looked him in the eyes with a smile and said "Great, let's start with one!"

BRIAR RIDGE Karl Stockhausen Hermitage 1998
Winemaker Karl Stockhausen is an Australian legend. He left his native Germany in 1944 and came to Australia. A few years ago I attended the Lindemans anniversary dinner with wine buddy, David P. We've met the great man and tasted his 1972 Hunter Semillon, that impressed me so much that I'm looking out for Karl's wines ever since. The signature series is the highest quality Briar Ridge release made by guest winemaker, K. Stockhausen. The fact that Karl is German and the wine is not available in Austria (no doubt, the labeling didn't help) made this release very interesting for the tasters.

A beautiful and distinctive Hunter Shiraz. Blood red color, with dark hues. At 5 years of age, the typical sweaty, earthy Hunter aromas are now starting to appear. Toasty oak on the nose, mixed with spice and blackberries. The palate is rich, tasty dark berries, licorice and exceptional sweet fruit balanced by fine tannins. A sensational mouthful of ripe fruit with unique Hunter Valley characters. Soft and long, it still has velvety power and a long finish. Will peak in 10 years time. Outstanding.
"Wow...I'm not used to this Australian style" admitted Tony.
"Unique...with clear definition of origin" said Franz W. Sr.
At the very end of our tasting Franz W. Jr came up to me: "I know the Grange was great...but I really liked the Stockhausen wine also"

So did I Franz, so did I.

MOUNT PLEASANT Maurice O'Shea Shiraz 1999
I wrote about this wine not long ago on the old Auswine site. I wanted the group to see this evening, what I considered is the ultimate expression of Hunter Valley shiraz. Made by great winemaker Phillip Ryan, out of his 1996,97,98,99 vintages I consider this to be his best O'Shea. The color is still deep crimson with a very dark centre. The nose is reserved right now with dark chocolate and red berries and some slightly aromatic spice. It needs many more years before the Hunter characteristics will appear. The palate is packed with rich plum fruit and savory red berries. Amazing length, excellent and firm tannins. Powerful oak support (spent 18 months in new oak, 90% american, 10% French) guarantees at least 30 years of life. There is an amazing depth to the complex fruit flavors, that comes from the 120 years old vines planted on the Old Hill site. Alcohol is at 14.5% vol. Needs at least 10 more years to open up.

"I see the strength and power...will be great in time, too young for now" commented Tony.

"Not as charming as the Stockhausen but will live longer" added Franz W. Jr.

MANNING PARK Wild Shiraz 1997
I first tried this shiraz made by Warren Randall, on May 1st 1999. I know this date clearly, as I entered it in my tasting notes that this McLaren Vale brute left me with blackened teeth and the impression that this mighty and powerful wild shiraz needs a bit of respect and time. Well, this evening it turned out that the beast had been tamed by time. To my surprise I found a tasty, medium bodied, mature shiraz in my glass. Perfectly round and flavorful, it was a lovely drink. The only proof that once this had been a terrorizer of an unfined and unfiltered wild shiraz, was the sediment in the empty bottle that lined the glass from the base to the neck.
"Looks fully mature to me, will it age further?" asked Tony after my speech that this wine was a massive killer. Well, my answer was: Probably not. For some reason, this shiraz is now only one of many, perfectly good drinking but not outstanding McLaren Vale reds. The others enjoyed it but for me, great expectations died.

D'ARENBERG The Dead Arm Shiraz 1997
Same region, same vintage as the Manning Park but a totally different wine. This warmly alcoholic powerful monster had the alcohol of 14.5% vol. and 22 months ageing in new and 1st use American and French oak. Chester Osborn made a very traditional and slightly old fashioned red that clearly needed 10 more years to come around. The color is still very deep red with some brick on the edges. Lot's of oak on the nose and alcohol but this changed into an exotic array of spices, cinnamon and cedar.
"Now, this is the style I'm more familiar with..."commented Tony.
"Pretty much an 'In your face' style, packed with fruit and oak" added Franz W. Jr.
'I've never heard of the 'Dead Arm'(Eutypa lata) vine disease, is that an Australian thing?" asked Anton.
The palate was rich with blueberry, blackberry and more spice. The powerful oak remained evident throughout. A classic Dead Arm, very good but my preference still goes to the leaner 1999 or the more concentrated 2000. It had been the first time that the warmly alcoholic finish bothered me in a D'Arenberg wine.

BAILEY'S 1920's Block Shiraz 1998
The grapes came from the shiraz vines that were planted in the 1920's to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the founding of Bailey's of Glenrowan winery. Winemaker Rob Dolan states on the back label that this vintage is perhaps the best 1920's Block Shiraz ever made. In the past I've been impressed by the 1990 vintage and not long ago we've drunk the 1996 at our club dinner. I brought this wine to Austria to show an exciting shiraz from Victoria.
Colour deep red, showing signs of ageing on the edges. Blossoming nose of red berries and aromatic plum. Beautiful and silky palate, concentrated and rich. Medium bodied and perfectly balanced.
"Intelligently made" said Wolfgang.
Ripe blackberries and juicy plum fruit made this wine a real pleasure to drink. Lovely now, it had the structure and the balance to age 10 more years.
"Clearly different to shiraz from the other regions" noted Tony.
"For me, this is great, I love it!" admitted Brigitte.
In contrast to The Dead Arm this wine was more polished and smooth. Certainly very good and worth trying.

PENFOLDS Magill Estate Shiraz 1998
Laser etched (guaranteed quality and origin) bottle. The only single vineyard wine made by Penfolds. Winemaker: John Duval. A shiraz from the original site in Adelaide, established in 1844 by Dr. C.R.Penfolds. The grapes were hand picked from the little more than 5 hectares Magill vineyard planted to shiraz. The wine spent 16 months in new French (58%) and American (42%) oak. Limited release. Bottle no:20257. Some people prefer this wine to the Grange.
Very dark red color with cherry red showing on the edges. On the nose it is restrained with peppers, dark berry, licorice and scents of blueberry. The palate is a real surprise, very complex and flavorful. Crammed with great and juicy shiraz flavors, the wine is a treat. Drinking beautifully now it finishes with ripe tannins and lovely grainy oak. Needs 10 more years until full maturity.
"Wow, what a great wine...perfectly balanced" said Tony with a nod.
"First class winemaking, faultless and fantastic" added Franz W. Sr.
"A top Australian shiraz" noted Franz P.
I was very impressed by this great and fantastic Magill. Tony and I choose it as our favorite wine of the evening.

PENFOLDS Grange 1996
A South Australian shiraz-cabernet blend. Bin 95. The grapes are from Kalimna-Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Magill and Padthaway sites. The wine spent 19 months in new American oak. Winemaker: John Duval. Alcohol is at 14% vol. Laser etched bottle. Many considers Grange to be Australia's greatest red wine.
Everyone had great expectations at the table and the wine did not disappoint. Suddenly our fantastic Riedel shiraz glasses made even more sense. Everyone took time for study and reflection.
At 7 years of age it is still dark, ox blood red, not showing much, if any signs of ageing. Restrained nose but still complex and promising, oozing greatness. Rich and spicy plum, some toasty oak, pepper and a little cigar from the cabernet. The palate is multi layered, densely concentrated. Massive, chewy fruit of ripe blackberries and spicy and exotic fruit flavors. Layers and layers of exceptional fruit flavors. Amazing balance, sheer perfection. Very similar in build to a Medoc Premier Grand Cru wine, this blend without question is one of the greatest Granges ever made. A monumental and fantastic achievement by John Duval, an absolutely perfect wine in every sense. I've never tasted the hyped 1998 vintage but it's better be better for AU $800 because in this price comparison, this wine for AU $400+ is delivering the goods. The oak is very clean and in beautiful harmony with the wine. The long dry finish is amazing, it goes on and on. Aristocratic wine in the class of it's own. Everyone loved it and choose it as the wine of the evening, except Tony and myself going with the single vineyard Magill. This 1996 Grange needs an other 8 years to soften, will probably last for two more decades after that. It's throwing sediment already, decant accordingly.
"I've never tasted the Grange before, this is great winemaking" commented Franz W. Sr.
"I see a style difference between the 1996 and earlier vintages" observed Tony.
"This is what I expected from the Grange, perfection from the start to the finish" said Wolfgang.


On the way back to Hungary I kept thinking in the car that Australian shiraz certainly made this country proud and is one of the great wines of the world.
 

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About the Author
Attila is a regular on the Auswine forum and posts regular tasting notes about many of the worlds great wines he has had the privilege of tasting and writes about the regular wine events he takes part in.